That is a lot of questions! That's great...I want you to post a lot. They each are very broad and I have a lot to say about them, so I'm going to respond to each question individually.1)  Handling a HUD without losing the gameflow.I can´t find a balance between HUD and gameflow. The second a HUD shows up at the table i start looking for stuff villain does "wrong" and try to punish him for that without considering gameflow. But even though i know this i´m not able to step away and consider gameflow. Best examples are people who dont fold to c-bets. The clever thing would be to tighten c-bet ranges to valuebets and 2/3 barrel a few good spots. But even though i got caught 3 barrelling 2 or 3 hands ago i´ll do it again allthough its pretty obvious i won´t get him to fold anything halfway decent.I´ll see a 27Tr board and barrel on a K turn and A river just to get shown QT by villain. K and A a both scarecards so it might be a good play in the abstract but the fact that i  have a spewy image doesnt matter i see that 10% number at the Fold to c-bet stat.So i just ditched the HUD and seem to play better that way, but in the long run i would really like to be able to use every tool available to imrpove my game.If used correctly, a HUD is a great tool for maximally adjusting to your opponents. HUD stats, as you know, are not all we can use to adjust to our opponents.A villain's 3bet % of 18% is just an AVERAGE of all 3bet situations combined. It includes all the times where he is 3betting nitty bc he has 3bet a lot recently bc he has been cardhot (his 3bet% might be only 12% after 3betting the previous hand deep). It includes the times he might 3bet bluff bc he has been carddead and has a better image for it (his 3bet% might be 35% when he has this image). It includes <25 stacks 3bet shoves, which are a totally different range/dynamic than deeper-stack 3betting obv. If we don't look at this number for what it is, it can lead us to far worse decisions than if we just didn't use a HUD and just tried to pay attention to frequencies.This same thought process should then apply to most other HUD stats. Cbet%'s often differ drastically on different board textures: a villain who cbets an overall average of 85% often will cbet dry K42-type boards 100% of the time, but only cbet wet JT7-type boards 65% of the time. If we treat all cbets on all board textures as an 85% cbet range, we are going to not play back often enough on dry boards -- and probably play back too often on wet boards! Fold to 3bet% is similar, especially when comparing deeper to shorter stacks. A lot of villains who open wide (85% of hands or so) will have the mindset of calling non-all in 3bets "because they want to see a flop". So their fold to 3bet% will be quite low when we are making non-all in 3bets at deeper stacks. When we get to shorter stacks, if they are still opening wide 65-85% or so, and we have begun 3bet shoving all in...they can't "call to see a flop now", and have so many hands in their range that have to fold to 3bet jams. So, most hands take place in 50-75bb structure games at >25 stacks, so the HUD stat for fold to 3bet% will reflect closer to what they fold at deeper stacks...if we just go by this HUD stat, then it would appear bad to 3bet shove wide at <25 stacks...so we would be leaking pretty hard there.I think you get the point.The key is just taking HUD stats with a grain of salt. They ARE meaningful and important: a villain who has a 20% 3bet%, even if his ranges and frequencies change at different stacks, he almost definitely has 3bet bluffs in his range some and is absolutely not 3betting a nitty range...that is a fact; a villain who cbets 85%, even if he changes ranges on diff boards, definitely cbets a wide range on the vast majority of boards; etc.So if we just don't use a HUD, i think it's very very rare that anyone is capable of accurately analyzing frequencis on their own well enough. Even the "best" players who don't use a HUD would be better off if they knew how to use HUD stats correctly. They might be better than most players, but they could be better than the current version of themselves (something you will hear from me a lot in this forum). I can't teach you how to use a HUD perfectly right away. The key is just being realistic about what HUD stats represent. Don't rely on your HUD too much...pay attention to previous hands vs villain, analyze board texture, consider gameflow, then refer to your HUD stats if you need more info. I think it's good that you recognize this as a leak in your game. Most people, when they realize that using a HUD adversely effects their games, stop using a HUD and find a million ways to justify doing so. They are leaving money on the table. Using a HUD correctly will help you adjust more correclty to your opponents, and will make you a lot more money long term.

i don't have your email yet i don't think. email me at hokiegreghu@hotmail.com please!

2. Multitabling makes me paranoidyeah its basically the same as the HUD. I want to be 2 tabling 100s+ one day but i can´t keep the gameflows seperate in my mind.If i get 3bet on the left table and a second later the right table will 3bet me i get the subconcious  feeling of being runover and having to play back which makes me do things i would never consider when i´m 1 tabling.That is an overdramatisation of my point but it just a matter of time untill i stop playing my A-game if i'm playing more than one table. I have recently seen 1 or 2 of Hokies videos where he talks about exactly that problem but i´m not sure how to fix it on my own. It's a skill to be able to recognize your weaknesses, as you seem to be able to do quite well.It is important to be aware of and respect that almost everything in poker is a skill: volume, tilt control, multitabling, focus, quality of studying, organization, discipline...so many non-strategy skills.To become more skilled at something, you obviously have to practice it and improve gradually. I think many players have the wrong idea about how to improve in these non-strategy areas: basically, "suck it up and try harder." It's not that simple. We are all different, some of us are great at volume but bad at focus; others are great at tilt control, but don't really know how to study properly. So obviously, if your focus is your biggest strength and your multitabling ability is your biggest weakness, it is unfair to yourself to hold your weakness to the same standard as your strength. Everyone is more naturally talented in certain areas. So how do you improve your skill in these areas (I'm going to just knock out all these topics at once, bc it's all the same!):You learn gradually.Think about it like you are in the gym lifting weights. If your goal is to be able to benchpress 130kg, but currently you can oly benchpress 80kg - it is completely impossible for you to just "suck it up" and benchpress 130kg. Adding a table when you aren't prepared to, doubling your volume, never tilting, focusing 100% of the time, etc: they are all equally impossible for us to expect ourselves to be able to do immediately. You might not physically injure yourself like you would trying to benchpress 130kg, but you will almost certainly mentally or financially hurt yourself (burnout and have to take a bunch of off days, tilt, lose a ton of money, autpilot). So how do we improve? The same way we would go from benching 80kg to 130kg! Gradually. The realistic way to increase your benchpress would be to slowly work your way up - 85kg, 90kg, etc etc etc. After a while, you are able to bench 130kg. Volume, multitabling, etc are all very similar. If you want to add a 2nd table:Once you are feeling good in your session, add a 2nd table. Continue with 2 tables until you find yourself beginning to struggle mentally. Allow yourself to struggle for a while, challenge yourself to improve, if you find yourself struggling too much then stop. Drop back to 1 table and finish your session. Afterwards, take some notes and analyze how you reacted when you began struggling 2 tabling: how long were you able to 2 table?, what caused you to lose focus?, etc. You are basically creating a mental game sample size to analyze your ability to 2 table. Find the point where you begin to struggle. Maybe that is on average about 40 minutes into 2 tabling. Stick with that point (just as you would if you are struggling benching 90kg). Continue to analyze and work on improving. Build more mental muscle and you will get stronger. Increase your 2 tabling sessions another 15 minutes, see how that goes, analyze/reevaluate. Continue that process and you will eventually find yourself 2 tabling throughout your entire session without any real problems.I hope the weightlifting analogy works for you, it does for me. You could use a bunch of different physical challenges (running, etc) and I think it gets the point across the same way :)Do you see how this approach would apply for improving your volume? For improving the length of your sessions where you can focus on a high level?Hokie

3. Fight or flight.Its basically the underlying problem of 1 and 2. Baluga mentions this in the coaching kristy series at DC and i see myself in there.When we´re not playing our a-game and suddenly we face unexpected aggression our basic instincts kick in and we just stop calculating ranges and odds. We´re stunned and just think "oh shit he raised!! i can´t fold here!" and turn into a loose passive fish. I think this is what i need to fix first.As long as i´m feeling well and playing my a game on one table i´m fine. But the second i get the feeling of being run over/persecuted in some way my prefrontal cortex(the part in the brain for planning,judgement and decisions) stops working and something more basic makes me play worse.I´m still able to hand read enough to not  drown in bad plays but if i could stop this my ROI would make a big jump.Pressure exposes weakness, it does not create it. Before you got off your A-game and started facing aggression, there was no pressure. But the weakness (getting paranoid about aggression, losing focus, etc) was still there, just not active yet.One of the biggest differences between me compared to you - and you compared to a worse reg or a fish, is the amount of strategy decisions that are second nature (almost like breathing) to us. When we get far off our A-game and lose focus, pressure exposes the weaknesses in our games. During this time, we rely on the strategy decisions that are almost subconscious to us.For example:Even when we are tilting, we still raise T9s from the button. We fold K2o to a 3x oop (i hope). We 3bet our AK. We c/r a JT2 flop with JT. Etc.The amount of strategy decisions (and the skill level required for them) that are in my subconscious is a lot more than is in your subconscious. The subconscious decisions you make are still going to be far better than a fish's though. The mistakes that we make when we are "on our C game" or "we lose focus" are almost always indicative of the strategy concepts we need a deeper understanding of!Does that make sense?

4. Facing people who dont fold.I know everybody who reads this will instantly think "valuebet them to death!!!" but i´m not talking about fish. I´m talking about people who are thinking players(one of them a 9% ROI regular), who will flat a REALLY wide range of hands ooP, float 80% of flops and pound on every sign of weakness i give them on turn or river. Often i´ll valuebet a 2flush flop.C-bet a blank turn just to face a donkbet on a river Overcard that completes the flush. Since they´ll do the same if they hit river they´re extremely uncomfortable to play against.My answer is to tighten up my opening range to 70%, c-betting 2ndpair+,any draws and hands that continue on a lot of turns like Backdoorflushdraws(60%), barrel turn only on scarecards, if i have TP+ or strong draws(8+ outs).I´d tighten up even more but since they´re aware of my ranges and seem to adjust i feel like i´m giving up too many uncontested blinds if i fold more than 30% in Position preflop.So how would you adjust your preflopranges against some1 who does that?First off, I feel that people often grossly exaggerate how many players truly "never fold". So just be sure you are being as realistic as possible about this.The fact is: texas hold 'em is a game with 52 cards in the deck, 4 suits, 13 to a suit. because of these constants, its a mathematical game. mathematically then, HE CAN NOT HAVE HANDS OFTEN ENOUGH TO CONTINUE TO THE RIVER 80% OF THE TIME OOP! I think you know this though. But when you say that he continues to river with 80% of hands, then donks a 3flush river and you are suggesting its balanced -- there is just no way. Call. See what kind of hand he shows down. Get reads.A lot of times, guys that call cbets 80% of the time will fold to a lot of double or triple barrels. This is because they have a TON of weak hands in their range in a big pot. So there is a lot of value in barreling them.A villain who c/r a ton oop (35%) and we know it includes all value hands, his c/c range will be really weak. We can barrel him a ton.Villains who truly never fold. Make the preflop adjustments you suggested, tighten your cbet range how you suggested, but increase your sizings! Cbet 65 into 80, 2 barrel 150 into 190, etc. If he doesn't adapt, your ranges will absolutely crush his. If u feel he is playing back a ton, then just don't be a nit and call down a lot. See what he shows down, gather info, adjust.Just be realistic about the boards that people float. Someone who floats a ton might float a 237 board with atc bc everything has equity basically. That same player is unlikely to float 89 on a AK2 board though bc it has no equity.So ya, basically what I'm saying is be very very careful about making generalizing someones game into just a few sentences. That type of player is going to be tricky to adapt to initially (anyone who is far outside the population tendancies that we make our base decisions on will be difficult at fist). If you adapt correctly and dont lose focus (like in question 3), you can expect a huge longterm return versus this opponent.

Really like how Hokie explained the HUD thing :-)In addition to that, it is extremely important to pay attention to sample size - any not only look for how many hands you have against this opponent, but also how many hands you have for the particular statistic you're looking at !I made this mistake a ton in the past when I was multi-tabling and somehow slipped into auto-pilot mode without even realizing it - that I only looked at some particular statistic, but not at how often this situation has actually happened before.For instance 4bet% - if you have a ton of hands against someone, but didn't 3bet him very often yet, then this statistic is absolutely meaningless.I'm using PT3, and I always mouse-over (PT3 shows you how often it happend in total and this session) any statistic for a situation that's rare before I actually use it.But a HUD is also a great value, especially if you play someone more often as it quickly tells you how much he's 3betting, how often he cbets, all that stuff - and as a human, it's just so extremely difficult to pick this up yourself - especially if your sessions against the guy are scattered over several months.

@jackoneillYa, sample sizes are something I should have addressed a bit. There is just sooo much to say about the HUD. I'm sure I'll get into it more and more.These are the HUD stats that I use...I like to use stats that don't require huge sample sizes to be meaningful, since most people I play I don't play big samples against. If I want more specific stats, then I will click on my HUD and look through the big list of stats and find things like (turn c/r %, 4bet %, fold to 4bet, etc).Top line: big blind call %, small blind pfr%, 3bet%, fold to 3bet%, limp %, limp and fold to raise%, total handsBottom line: flop cbet%, turn cbet% (2barrel), fold to flop cbet%, fold to turn cbet%, flop check/raise%, flop donkbet%So top is preflop, bottom is postflop. All of the stats even out pretty quickly. Some more than others, but they are all meaningful. Like I said before, I just pay a ton of attentions to board texture/gameflow/other factors.

It's surprising how many people have asked me about donkbetting! (#5) I will be posting an article of sorts in the next week or so on the topic. It's a complicated one! 6.checkraising riversThats a short one. I just cant do it. I dont have the eye for checkraising spots.If my hand is strong enough to check raise i will have played it so fast, that villain won´t be on the river without showdown value(which he will check behind too often) or if i just hit the river my bingo card will also be a scarecard for villain so that he will shut down more often than not.It sounds like you would be pretty easy to 3barrel :). Just picking on you, but really the guys I really give a difficult time to are the ones who "play all their hands fast." Let's look at an example:We are playing a thinking player. We don't know if he barrels wide or for thin value, but we also don't know that he doesn't. We are readless basically.We flat A3 oop deepVillain cbets A87 we call -- pot is 200ish stacks remaining are about 1200the turn is a 3 -- villain 2 barrels 140Check/raising here is pretty bad imo (obv its +ev, but its definitely not maxEV almost always) -- especially versus thinking players but vs fish as well just not as bad. If we c/r turn here, what do we accomplish? We turn our hand faceup. We guarantee that villain shuts down all bluffs and just plays fit or fold. Villains fit or fold range that will continue vs a c/r is mostly hands that would have valuebet the river as well! So even when we do stack AK on the turn, we would've stacked it on the river or called a big river valuebet and won a lot anyways...and we allowed bluffs to stay in his range by not taking the scariest line possible (people respect turn c/r over double barrels a lot, esp on dry boards).we correctly call the turn and the river is another 3 -- Hero??Leading here is another big mistake. Just like the turn reasoning, if we lead here we eliminate bluffs and get called mostly by hands that would have valuebet if we checked to them anyways.So this is definitely a spot where we should have a river c/r hand in our range.Some other lines -- I won't go into the exact reasonings, if you can't figure it out ask me to go into more detail.**same stacks as first exampleHero calls T9 pre (pot 120)Villain cbets J72 flop and Hero calls (pot 240)Turn is an 8, Hero checks and villain 2 barrels 150 --- HERO CALLSRiver is a 2, HERO CHECKSSo ya, when I check/call a cbet and improve on the turn -- if it's not a board that is going to shutdown villains range a lot I will be check/calling.Some examples of where I think actually leading the turn is a lot better (I'm not c/r turn much it's too scary):Hero check/calls A8 on J82 flopturn is an 8 -- HERO LEADSVillain is going to be checking back way too much on this turn. So many people check back their JX which is never folding to a lead. Straight draws check back which would call a lead, etc.Example 2)We know that villain almost never barrels with airHero check/calls a cbet on J62 with K6turn is a K -- HERO LEADSWe know that villain never barrels air. We know villain is the type to not bet 3 streets with just JX. So JX and worse will be checking back the turn almost always. So what is the value in checking then? If we lead, JX never folds so we maximize value from that. I hope that makes sense.Post some hands regarding this spot please. 

Seriously these are some really good questions you asked. They are complicated and require a little more effort than the hands in other threads, so that's why I'm taking some time to respond. Just very board topics to cover. 

Forgot to mention: The wider villain valuebets multiple streets, the better just calling down and c/r the river will be. I can think of a ton of players (me included) that are valuebetting A2/A4 on that river 100% of the time. c/r turn or leading the river is just so bad bc how of how frequently (and correctly) i barrel turns and rivers both for value and bluffs.I don't mind your questions AT ALL, in fact I encourage them. Just wanted to make sure we are on the same page that they do take a bit more thought than the norm. I enjoy answering them...I love talking about poker if you can't tell :)

I understand your point, and there are a lot of players that you absolutely should be leading the river against in the A3 hand - and probably just leading or c/r the turn. I am basing my decision to call down on the population tendancy at my stakes - so that would be to call/call/c-r bc people barrel more and valuebet thin. At lower stakes, I'm sure it is true that the population tendancy is to bluff less an valuebet less - also that type of player will spew more vs a turn c/r or a river lead and not exploit you if you don't have good hands in your river checking range.The main point I want to focus on is that it is just so important to BE AWARE of what you are doing to your ranges when you c/r the turn when you improve or always lead rivers improved. You are playing very exploitably by doing this because you will have a lot less rivers than can call river barrels - so barreling you is a lot easier.The problem for the vast majority of players that play exploitably is that they open themselves up to being exploited - and they don't realize it. So I barrel these players relentlessly. Most of them just can't see how faceup they make their hands with a turn c/r or river lead, and then what it does to their river checking range. 

 7. dry A-high boards.i hate this.50% of people will c/r/f those spots.50% of the other 50% will know that i know that nobody has an A in this spot, so they will rep air by checkraising an Ace here and the rest is just drooling and its impossible to figure out what they have. There is so much leveling going on in those spots that im afraid of outleveling myself so i tend to just play it straight forward which can´t be the optimal strategy.This question is too broad. I think this one would be better if you posted some hands...if you have reads on a specific player I could talk forever on these type spots - otherwise readless I'm pretty fit or fold facing a c/r so thats not too interesting :)Most people arent "capable" in most spots. The average player is more straightforward than you would think. 50% of players do not check/raise AXX boards with AX bc they know they are repping air. 50% of players don't c/r bluff these boards either. The average player just plays relatively fit or fold (like they do on most any board!). The average player at all buyin levels is less active than you would think. Don't play paranoid poker. Base your decisions off population tendancies. Poker isn't a guessing game. Establish reads through showdowns and frequencies and beging to adjust gradually off that.  

Make sure that when you read my answers to these questions you don't apply them too strictly to your game. These are VERY broad questions. My answers are simply my base decision vs the average player. Of course, there will be many adjustments, so when I say to check/call 3 streets with A3 above - there are exceptions to almost any strategy decision (a lot more in this case). I like the broad questions though, they have been good topics so far. I would stick a little bit closer to non-strategy specific topics though - it's hard to generalize something like "how to respond to a c/r on AXX boards"...i just think its a lot more productive to post specific hands with some reads since that is what poker is all about: adapting. The answer to these broad questions are just generalizations, and I don't want you to fall into the trap of generalizing TOO much in husng's. All of my readless play is based off of generalizing my average opponent, but after I have played someone for even just a couple of games I have usually adapated far away from my initial generalizations.

 8.Timing tellsHow do you control your timing?I feel like there is a certain rythm to a game and if i encounter borderline hands where i´m not sure if i want to open them i hesitate slightly longer and often even passive people seem to 3bet me light in those spots.And i feel like some of my bluffs get picked up easier if i play them faster then the usual timing(because i´m determined on flop to 3barrel for example).Especially preflop where i would like to just open my usual range it feels like i can´t do it too slow or too fast because i seem to induce thoughts like" he didn´t even think about that hand, he´s just opening any2 " or "he really hesitated there he´s probably pretty weak". Of course there is a ton of people who wont care but regulars seem to notice those thing and i expect it to get worse if i move up.So i started counting to 3 ahead of any action but i feel like its still not enough for close decisions and slowing the game down too much in the easy spots.(especially now that i´m 1 tabling)I really think that you are over-analyzing this. I used to worry about this a ton, but I just think it's very overrated. I just take some time for each decision, I rarely act instantly. If you need to take some time to make a tough decision, take it. Tbh, when people take a little bit longer to act I usually perceive it as strength anyways. I'm usually on 2-3 tables at a time and my timing is very random. I don't feel anyone really picks up on it or even really tries to play back bc of my timing. Maybe I'm a fish and completely missing out on something here though :)^^^I'm just referring to general timing, not very specific spots.For more specific spots:I will play certain players who when they are firing a 3rd barrel: fast timing on river is a bluff, slow is valueWhen they 3bet shove pre at 20 stacks: fast is weak, slow is strongerBut I don't think these are the types of timing leaks that you are referring to. These are a lot more specific and easy to exploit.Just take time, pace yourself. I wouldn't worry about counting or anything. If you are really concerned, have a friend make a video of you playing from his perspective (where you cant see hole cards). I think it will make you more comfortable to view yourself from villain's perspective and realize that you are probably just being al ittle paranoid about timing. 

Question 9: I seriously doubt you will ever find a stacksize situation where you are potcommitted to call a shove knowing that villains entire range is small pairs. It's a simple pot odds calc though:1500 stacks if we minraise bb100 and villain jams a range of 22-66 (i'm not going to do specific range math here)let's say we are 45%we have to call 1300 into a pot after our call of 3000...so we need 1300/3000 to call or 43.3%...we have 45% equity so it would be a call.as you can see, we will never be in this spots. noones range at 15 stacks is just 22-66.I would fold KQ vs fastcolt, probably starting to call a jam with it at <25 stacks as I think he will begin 3bet shoving light some then.

 10. go and goThere are people who open a lot and will not fold as long as their is at least a tiny illusion of future foldequity(they´ll see any flop as long as they dont have to go allin). In shallow stakes i like to 3bet them setting up a potsize(or slightly less) shove on the flop with a range that is hard to realize its equity if i just flat.(probably: any ace,77+ for value, KJ+)Since they will hit a decent pair only about 30% of the time i have a lot of fold equity and at the same time i´m ahead against most of their weak  draws.But i´m not sure how to figure out if this pays off more in the long run than just shoving pre and taking it down.Villain's flatting range will realize it's equity pretty easily vs our AX/77-TT hands. KQ/KJ dominate more of villains flatting range - so I def think that 3betting non-allin is going to be best (since villains are folding those dominated hands to a jam). I actually think this is the best line with these hands vs most villains.I would just jam your AX/77-TT though, you arent inducing as much as you'd think when villain flats J9s type stuff.  

9:read some of the <25 stacks articles by Mers on BB play. 3bet shoving a wide range (96s, Q5s, type stuff) vs a wide opener with a tightish calling range at <25 stacks can be VERY +ev.

11. lowering betsize depending on boardstructure  or stacksize still induces aggression vs lowlvl opponents yeah that speaks for itself mostly. In a lot of HUSNG videos you guys say "this is a pretty dry board so a halfpotsize bet or even less should do the job. no reason in paying too much for the bluff" but people at the stakes below the 100s seem to associate the betsize with the strength of your hand and c-betting halfpot on a A92r board will get me a ton of floats from K-high and c/r from worse hands. I´m at a point where i do this to induce light raises if villain doesnt know my standard betsizes yet, but normally i feel like betting 60 into 80 or 80 into 120 increases my foldequity a lot.Are there specific opponent types you do this against or is it simply something i need a bigger samplesize on and i should keep doing this against the most part of my opponents?(It was something i did as a standard and kept adjusting when people show me they wont fold to a halfpot bet, but i feel like i should be doing it the other way around and only start lowering my betsize,when i identify villain as someone who fold too much to c-bets)i think you are probably overestimating exactly how often you get played back at. when you cbet 50 into 100 it needs to work 33% of the time (50/150). when you cbet 70 into 100 it needs to work 41% of the time. so even if you increase your size, it needs to work 8% more frequently - so even if villain plays back a little less it might not matter.if you find your opponents check/raising too frequently, then start playing back at them. if they are floating too frequently, then barrel them. these arent necessarily bad things. being a good poker player is being able to exploit all different kinds of ranges, not just the passive stations that are the easiest to play.

12.at what point is the foldequity worth more than trapping into 55/45 or 60/40 situationsThat is something i started wondering about when i watched mers play. At a certain point he wont minbet/call anymore because the prospect of taking down 1,5 bb preflop is better than inducing the opponent to jam and get it in with 40-45% equity.But  i´m not sure how to figure out where that sweet spot is, where i´d rather not limp/call A2o against some1 who will shove any2 in this spot.(again overdramatization obv. :D )it's not because he wants to avoid 55/45's, it is because his hands really don't induce all that well. any kind of range, even a wide range is going to have decent equity. more importantly, if we minraise we allow villains to flat pre - A2/66 type hands are going to do very poorly vs a flat from Q8/T7 type hands as they realize their equity quite easily vs our range.

13.comitting bets from villainI just watched H2Olgas introduction video and there was a spot where i got check/minraised with a flopped J-high flush and he shoved saying villain committed himself and he expects him to call here 100% of the time.That is too something that does not correlate with my experience at the 30s. I got people to min6bet me with Q9o on a 743r flop in a spot where his first c/minraise would be committing to any decent player, but i´m very sure he would have folded instead.So again i want to know against what kind of opponent you will shove for value when you expect him to think of himself as committed?Because i see more value in inducing another bluff by blinking it back than i see a risk of giving villain odds to see another street, when i conisder my average opponent.there are certain board textures and lines that the average player tends to very rarely have bluffs on.when i get c/r on a JT9hh board, i almost always expect villains range to contain 100% value - of which all hands will be calling a shove. it's just not a board people bluff on often at all. the biggest reason i dont want to flat is because i dont want action-killing cards to come on the turn - for example, if villain c/r KJ and the turn is a T a lot of villains will shut down and c/c so it is harder for us to get stacks in. just because you saw someone do something ridiculous w Q9 once doesn't mean that is what your average player does. like in question 11, it probably happens way less often than you are imagining. but ya, think about action-killing cards and how that will effect your ability to get stacks in. is it a board that the average player typically has all value on? 

15. playing vs limps I have a hard time to decide when to shove Ax and Kx and when to check and extract more value when we flop TP.What factors do you consider when you´re facing that decision?Stacksize is the most complicated for me.Its pretty easy to decide if some1 limps 100% 15bb deep but above 20-25bb  its close and i do it more by feeling than really logical calculations.I guess vs passive people we´ll be looking for a flop more often than against some1 who is very aggressive postflop and tries to win everypot.I´d really like some thinking process for me that i could employ ihn those spots instead of just letting my gut decide if i want to shove or check this time.Also people who limp 100% are just setting me up for the nash equilibrium right?(slightly looser because there are 2bb instead of 1,5 obv)ask this question in the Mers-only forum. i could give you a decent answer here, but he'll likely back this one up with a bit more math. 

biggest thing that stands out to me in his stats is how few times he has had to face 3 barrels. you have 2 barreled 86 times and only 3 barreled 5 times, if i am reading correctly. yes, it seems like hes not folding much, but when someone is playing 79% of hands oop they are going to have a lot of weak hands in their oop range postflop - esp if he is c/r a decent range that will mean his c/c range is very weak as well. just barrel a really wide value range as well as some bluffs on boards wherehe is likely to call 2 streets with a lot of combo draws and what not.minraise vs him pre so you can call more of his 3bets. 4bet more for fold equity with your weak AX and some KXsif he c/r certain boards very wide, polarize your cbet range between hands that can continue vs a c/r and hands that easily fold to a c/r. check back hands with showdown value that can't face a c/r.

56 is more of a fold these days imo, until you start realizing that villain has high river leading frequencies (likely bluffs in range) or is just capable of some bluffs.K6 i would shut down on turn. i dont expect first/2nd pair to fold ever and flushes are def in villains range.K9 turn play is ok. i wouldn't 3bet preflop though unless villain is calling 3bets with a SUPER wide range. K9 fairs much better in your flatting range typically. postflop i think your cbet size is way too big - i can even see just c/f this board as villain will have A TON of combos that continue on this board. c/f is probably best tbh. if we are going to cbet, definitely cbet smaller.99 3bet shove pre

eww, is there any easier way to post these hands? i'm not really familiar with the hand converters yet. will talk to mers asap if you can't figure it out.

5) JT hand: you aren't losing value if your value-raise doesn't work >50% of the time. if it folds out his worse diamonds most of the time, and his Qd/Ad are continuing always, then it's a pretty bad value raise for you. i would need to know my villain is a HUGE station to raise here. but seriously when he 3bets the river all in you are beat. always. you need to be good like 15% of the time or so for your call to be correct - yes you are "committed", but he still needs to be bluffing 15% of the time or more for it to be a call. highly unlikely imo.6) ya shove is obv really bad. i would flat with a pretty tight range, 89s being close to the bottom of it. if he is 3betting you really wide here, he is risking a big % of effective stacks in doing so. this means that you don't need to continue nearly as often as you would if he was 3betting to a much smaller size, because their is more value in your fold equity to jam over him. i would just ship my AX, 22-JJ (flatting QQ-AA), KQ/KJ. flatting 89s-KTish type stuff. hands like 89s, T9o are going to realize equity very well on flop even vs AK type stuff, so i think a flat is mandatory.7) if he's really 3betting 35% at these stacks i would just jam pre and take advantage of your fold equity. 8) get in the habit of leading more flops. when you check flops limped you are giving villain the option to check back and realize his 15-30% equity with any two for free. that obv adds up quite a bit over the long term. really, really standard flop lead here for me. continuing on future streets as you mentioned.

9) if someone is c/r you 40% of the time, i would take this time hand and check-back. polarize your cbet range between hands that continue vs a c/r well and hands that fold to a c/r easily. checking back marginal equity/marginal showdown value type stuff - so like A9 on T93, 98 on J72, etc. weighting more hands that continue well into your cbetting range is going to make his c/r % of 40% really spewy. 10) this is the problem with cbetting close to 100% vs someone who is c/r this much. you just can't exploit a wide c/r range with a hand like this - think about how many value/equity combos he can have in his range. you are being optimistic in just considering that you dominate a couple draws he might have. this is a great hand to put in your checkback range when polarizing your cbetting range.11) i'd probably continue with something like 87o+ 67s+, jamming all of my AX and pocket pairs 22-JJ, flatting QQ-AA. thats a very healthy amount of hand combos to continue with. 

Playing really long sessions and staying focused throughout is a skill. It's a skill that very few husng players possess. I wrote an article about a month ago about improving your volume, focus, and length of sessions - comparing it to building physical muscle in the gym. Check that out I think it will help, and ya that article is +ev.It's very likely you need to break down your session into 2-3 shorter ones.

Oops didn't see you addressed that in your next post. You are right that breaking down your session into shorter sessions is just a bandaid, but it's a good start. Check out the article I wrote, that will give you an idea of how to start the processing of lengthening your sessions (approaching it as a learned skill).Jared's book will address the entitlement tilt stuff really well, so I won't get into that too much. It's likely that the tilt you feel when you get called down light by passives is just a subconscious recognition of your own poor play - and you direct your frustration onto your opponent, rather than yourself. Instead of being mad about loose passives, figure out how to beat them better. The deeper an understanding of how to approach loose passives, the more permanent your confidence will become even during frustrating times. Hope that helps. It's been nice getting to know you - good luck in the future.