hey man. welcome to the forum! excited to be working with you.My goal is to become a solid winner before April 1st, hopefully at the 60s at leastdepending on the amount of games you play in this time period, it's likely there is going to be A LOT of variance. so i wouldn't put to much weight in your actual real $ results in that time, and if you are at the 30s i wouldn't consider it a failure! i would measure your success based on comparing how well you are thinking about the game on April 1 to how well you were thinking about the game on February 15. and then look at your ev roi, then your actual results, then which buyin level you are comfortable playing. pretty much in that order.i have a feeling you know this, but poker is not a get-rich-quick scheme...it's a long term investment (which is why you invested in FT obv).

have you bought Jared Tendler's 'The Mental Game of Poker yet?'

sorry i missed your last question! will update today asap.

1. I have noticed I might be barreling the turn too much, around 60%. So when do you NOT barrel scary cards? I think I barrel in spots where a scary turn card improves villians range and that I should check back more.just saying that you "barrel the turn 60%" doesn't tell me enough because:- if you raise 85% pre, cbet 90%, and barrel 60% - yes, you have A TON of air in your turn range- if you raise 70% pre, cbet 60% and barrel 60% - you don't have that much total air in your turn rangeso it really depends on your preflop/flop frequencies quite a bit. in general though, i think it's good to barrel a lot. the avg player folds often enough to barrels for your frequencies to be high/exploitive.when to barrel depends a ton on a bunch of factors obv, so ya hands would help. in general though it's important to note that you should barrel different cards for different reasons vs thinking players and fish.thinking players: a thinking player thinks about ranges, what you represent, what they represent, etc. just bc an overcard falls on the turn (865 Q) a thinking player doesn't necessarily see this as a scare card a lot of times (this doesn't mean it's -ev to barrel a lot of times since their range is weak, but it's not nearly as +ev as vs a fish)fish: fish think a lot more in terms of their own relative hand strength. if a fish has K6 on 865 and c/c a cbet, the turn is a Q, the fish' thought process tends to be: "well i had 2nd pair on the flop, now i have 3rd pair". their hand strength drastically decreased in their view and they are a lot more likely to fold to a 2nd/3rd barrel than a reg imo (barring times when you find yourself against a huge station)2. What´s the average reg´s check/raise in this games? People seem to c/r a lot and I have trouble with this wide ranges, when does it start being too much?somewhere between 15-20% overall i'd guess. depends a ton on board texture and stack depth though. you will tend to get c/r'd with a higher frequency on connected boards (when villain is playing fit or fold), as well as getting c/r'd a higher freq as stacks decrease (bc it becomes more valuable to steal the pot on the flop/protect equity...and bc most people don't barrel super light at short eff stx so c/c is worse bc of that too)3. Does the avg. population play back much in dry flops at this stakes? People seem to play back at me a lot in spots where they don´t represent much, and I don´t know what to do readless in these spots.what stakes are you asking about? in general, no...the avg player doesn't play back much (at any stake imo). certainly not enough for us to play back a bunch versus c/r as a standard, that's for sure.i'd just recommend playing pretty fit or fold and making some exploitive folds until you find a good reason not to. if you feel you are getting c/r'd a lot, polarize your cbet range and start checking back marginal sd value so you can continue well vs a c/r a higher % of the time.i think most of the time that players feel they are getting played back against too much, it's all in their hand and it's not as often as they really think. 

J3: what's the question? we have J high and no backdoor draw. easy fold.avg player doesn't c/r enough for us to not cbet a very wide/exploitive range. cbet and comfortably fold to the c/r. if villain continues to c/r a lot, polarize like i said above.also, i would definitely recommend cbetting minimum t35 as you are still 23bb deep. i would cbet t40 still, even on dry boards. you probably are getting played back at a little more often when you cbet this small, but at the same time your smaller size has to work less often than t40 too. in general though, i think it's a big advantage of how fit or fold the avg player tends to play so i'd just cbet t40 and maximize fold equity.43: so why did you cbet t30 above, but you cbet t40 in this situation? i'd prefer the smaller cbet here if we do either, since eff stx are shorter.flat the minraise and reevaluate. you are getting the odds to call, and should get paid off a lot when you hit.Q2: check back turn. i'd be barreling here a decent amount, but you want to be barreling with some equity at least. 2 overs, gutshot type stuff at least. if you find he is folding way too often to barrels, then it's fine to just start barreling atc, but there is nothing wrong w shutting down w no equity. just keep in mind, you didn't cbet the flop bc barreling a ton of turns was +ev, you cbet the flop bc cbetting the flop was +ev (bc villain misses flop enough, folds to cbets often enough).Q4: check back turn. you don't get value from anything by betting and you have sd value. without a good reason, i wouldn't barrel this board light...hardly anything that calls the flop is folding turn.Q7: you are ahead of a good amount of worse 2 pair combos. i'd jam. i mean even if he's never bluffing, he'll have worse 2 pair a good amount, and then you are beat by the straights and better 2 pair. maybe he has KQ/QJ some too. even if he calls the jam 100% of the time, you only need to have the best hand ~36% of the time to justify getting it in (bc you have t160 committed already).min3bets: ya, call the min3bets readless until you have very specific reads that it is just big pairs basically. you are getting great odds on your call, so you really dont need to hit flops often at all for call to be > fold.T3: definitely bet river. you will get calls from JX/2pair/and other garbage that can't fold. i'd just bet 60% pot or so.also, if he's passive oop and loose (calling a wide range pre), i'd definitely still cbet this flop. he's going to have some QX-AX and other hands that will c/f. you have good equity, and will have some decent barreling opportunities on turn/rivers (we have equity to barrel).cbet a ton until you have a specific reason not to (board hits villain too hard, villain c/r too often).JT: i'd give up turn. hard to say what villain has i guess, but i expect to see KX and slowplayed 6X a fair amount (no AX in oop range i'd assume, and KX will c/c flop a lot). i'd expect flush draws to c/r flop, but who knows.your cbet sizes don't make a lot of sense though. why 50% on this board when stacks are 13bb, but 38% of the pot 23bb deep on a board where villain has more combos that can continue?95: i think it's a stretch to think draws just chk/jam, i don't see that much tbh. his c/r size is big though, so it would make sense for it to be a lot of draws/9X/JT type stuff - probably not much QX.i would flat and get it in on a non-spade, non-J/T turn. 

[95 on QQ9]: i think it's a stretch to think draws just chk/jam, i don't see that much tbh. his c/r size is big though, so it would make sense for it to be a lot of draws/9X/JT type stuff - probably not much QX.- If we think he is on a draw, why not get it in on flop? 

I am still struggling and even though I am running bad  I must have some serious leaks also. I want to do some kind of leakfinder on my database but I know nothing about what is ok and what not. I think I´m going to filter by stack size and maybe we can go from there?i wouldn't focus so much on your database %s, but on real decisions in real hands. your database %s are just what you do on average in all situations.for example, when your hud tells me you cbet 70% at a particular stack depth...maybe it seems close to correct, but its not nealry enough info for me to give you any real advice.there are certain boards you should be cbetting 100%, there are certain boards you should be cbetting much tighter. and villains oop tendancies can effect these decisions a ton.so just looking at a hud stat and saying "ya that looks good" isnt enough.just post some hands and let me review them, i think that will do you a lot more good!

Some general questions:I think I play bad oop whe getting shallow, at what stack depth should I stop flatting vs unkown?when their raising range is wide enough that the expectation of 3bet jamming all hands is higher than the expectation of hands that are profitable to flat. mess around with the husng.com 3bet equity calculator to get a feel for 3bet expectation. ask me about specific hands if you need more advice on it.I start 3bet shoving every Ax below 20bb, and I know I should start shoving strong Kx as we get shallower but I don´t know exactly what and when, so what more should I add at like 15bb, 12bb, 10bb readless?the 3bet shove calculator will definitely help with this.Do you play like the 12bb ROFL chart at 9 and 10bb or should I stop minraise folding? How should I adjust the chart below 12bb readless?openshoving will become better <12. i definitely think mr/folding some hands that cant openshove or limp or mr/call is going to be fine still - most players still dont play enough hands oop. What do you do with your J9 type hands when villian is very aggresive shoving over limps and is also a very aggresive 3bettor? Also, what stack depth should I stop calling 3x with these hands?mr/call J9s or openshove J9o. depends what % "very aggressive" is though. big difference between a 30 and 45% 3bet frequency, tho both would be classified as "very aggressive"What do you do with your A7-A2 vs villians that open just 30% or so? And as we get short? How do you play your range vs a raise from these tight openers?depends if that 30% is actually the top 30% of hands. if it is, i flat the weak AX more. in general, don't 3bet shove as a bluff anymore. plug in this % into the 3bet shove calculator to get a feel for 3bet expectation of diff hands vs this opening frequency.What´s your general plan for the flop when you flat a 3bet readless?relatively fit or fold. i don't think bluffing postflop in 3b pots is a very good idea without specific reads, most players dont fold enough. just flat with hands that realize equity on flops well...should do fine.

What I´d like to do is find where my winrate is doing worse in general, but i need some reference so it would be great if someone could share their numbers.\i would read through jhub's thread, i think winrate is discussed some there bt him and mers. i'd also just forward the winrate question to mers' thread too. tbh it's just not something i think about much or pay much attention to, right or wrong. i just focus on maxEV decisions and assume it will work out to solid winrates. sorry i can't help you more on this one.

I understand the theory but I don´t know how to apply that in game. I was asking readless though, what´s your plan then?my flatting range definitely decreases as stacks decrease quite a bit, especially <13-14 or so. when facing a minraise 9 deep tho, i'd still be flatting J8o Q8o type stuff. 8bb and lower is start to push it for flatting to better than jamming, if you can't jam that short you should prob just fold imo.Do you have a standard shoving range for different eff stacks when readlessassuming the avg player readless is raising ~55%. i'd start by jamming suited AX and A7o+ 25 deep, widening to all AX as we get closer to 20bb. 3bet jamming 22-66 at all stacks...closer to 20bb just 3bet jamming 77-TT too. as eff stx decrease villains pfr decreases too, so we shouldn't be 3bet jamming light too wide, but i'd do it with some suited connected type stuff that doesnt have amazing flatting expectation once we are <18ish. 85s 84s 74s type stuff is going to do pretty well and doesnt have great flatting exp (but better than folding).jhub's thread covers a lot of specific range stuff like this too fwiw.I looked into this in mersenneary´s thread and videos, but if you could be little more specific it would be great to know your take on this adjustments.10-11 hands, start jamming hands that you can NASH - but specifically hands that you can't mr/call profitably or limp with a better exp than jamming. T9o at 11bb stx J7o etc (a lot of the connected off suit stuff) is going to be better to limp vs a lot of players than jamming 10-11 deep still bc they just dont raise often enough. mid suited-connected stuff is def going to have good enough equity vs a calling range to just jam though.i would mr/fold some hands that you can't NASH, but have some card removal to villains 3betting/flatting range - stuff like Q5o, J4o, T5o (also these hands don't limp well).

J8s: i wouldn't bet the flop. you have good backdoor equity, and i just don't trust the avg player to 3bet pre and c/f the flop often enough for bluffing to be profitable. people tend to hate just c/f in 3bet pots for whatever reason.you have good backdoor equity, so i'd just chk back flop and thank villain for letting us realize free equity. if we pick up some equity on turn we can semibluff. but generally, you don't need to do a lot of bluffing postflop vs 3bets (even wide 3bets) to make flatting pre profitable (esp w a hand as strong as J8s).i'm worried that his flop c/c range is going to contain too much AX or trapping stuff. you also don't rep Ax at all, hard to say if villain realizes that. as played, i'd give up turn and if you do bet turn i'd give up river as well.J7: with stacks as short as they are after villain c/r to t80 i would just jam flop. after you flat stacks are t120 and pot is t200...we really shouldn't be folding to a jam much on turn. also, avg villain does tend to stack off lighter limped postflop when eff stx are short, so im not quite giving villain as strong a range as i normally would with this line in a limped pot bc of that. T9: ya, i do. villains range is pretty much capped at weak QX (and contains a good amt of stuff worse than that). we rep the board well, so i like the jam. AT: we don't get value from anything by betting turn. maybe you get some K highs or worse A highs to fold turn if you bet, but those hands are just going to go chk chk on river if you check back turn anyways. don't see any point in betting here really.QQ: you need to be right on the river 18.9% (140/740). i think it's close enough that i'd prob call. important part is just making sure you are understanding the "how often i need to be right" math. kind of a trivial spot otherwise bc its so close.K7: definitely. way too many draws in villains range and you only need ~44% equity to call jam.AK: we are getting the right odds to call. sucks to raise and then get jammed on, and we don't get any value by raising really. considering we are going to get a river card we can call another bet or bet for value on ~25% of the time, i'd hate to raise here and possibly miss out on that opportunity.74: why raise flop? this is similar to the AK hand too. you are getting the right odds given your equity to call. so just flat and reevaluate. what are you trying to accomplish by raising in these spots? so ya, just flat and as played def check back turn.Q8: well, what are you trying to get villain to fold? after he calls turn, his range is pretty much weighted to 7X/AX/3X and maybe a few gutshots that are being stations. that's not a very good range for us to be bluffing into. 75: i like the flop call. as played, i'd fold turn since a lot got there and a lot that beats us makes sense.Q6: i would definitely bet. villain is going to call with a bunch of 78/79/combo draws/A5 type stuff.86: really easy call. remember you only need to have ~30% equity to call a jam here. and yes, with stacks pretty short villain is going to chk/jam turn with draws and worse stuff plenty of the time. 

@2many3bets: thanks for participating in the program. i hope you feel you got solid value from it. please feel free to email me any follow-up questions at gtillerhokie@gmail.com.you will have read-only access for another 4 weeks approxgood luck