Hey,I've spent the first day of this program sifting thru all of last months threads, it turns out you did a great job of compiling them in your sticky! I'm going to read them over and hopefully have some follow up questions for you soon. In the mean time I thought I'd give you my poker background so you have a better idea of where I'm at when answering my questions.My story starts similarly to pretty much everyone elses, I'm 24 years old, I started playing poker at University, mostly live at home games, bars and casinos, I played a few low stakes 9man sngs online and lurked on 2p2 but nothing serious.When I graduated in April 09 (fellow math nerd here with major in math/stats, minor physics) I decided I didn't want to work for the man, so with no bills to pay and no responsibilities (parents basement ftw) I decided to give online poker a shot. I thought with my math background figuring out 9man sngs would be the easiest way to go. I started 2 tabling the $12 9mans and with the help of sngWiz and 2p2 I got up to 12 tabling the $36s, but after 14k games I still was struggling and wanted to make more than $1/game. So then joined Spacegravy's camp in Costa Rica and it was the best decision ever, he pretty much said 9mans are dead move to mtt sngs. So for the next 10k games I played 45mans and a few 90mans on FTP doing well, but a few months ago I lost all motivation to play them. I was bored and as a mtt sng player you peak at like $10-15k/month. So over my last few games I've tried mtts but they are way too stressful to me. I want to play something stimulating, but that I can grind a consistent profit, and have a much high peak than $10k/month, hello HUSNGS!I've played <5 HUSNGs lifetime lol, but my main regret with my poker career so far was not paying for quality help earlier on. I think I can learn a ton here even though I'm a noob, and it will skyrocket my progress in comparison to going it alone. This month long training is also beneficial to me in providing constant motivation to play. I have been very unmotivated lately, playing only a few hours a week, whereas I usually play 30hrs a week and study 10.
I will be starting out 1 tabling the $20-30 turbos and super turbos. Instead of my usual breakdown 75% grind 25% study, while learning this new format I will grind 50% and study 50%, totaling 40hrs a week.
Welcome!
There's a lot to cover, so I'm going to break it down into groups. For the first week or so I want to learn about end game <25bbs. So I will mostly be playing ST's this week and give HH's from those. First some theory:I've read over the following from the stickies:-3bet's in STs-Interview about endgame strategy-push fold straegy from SB-STs vs limpers-spamz0r's review of endgame terminology-Skates discusses key opponent tendencies short stacked-I've also read the first few posts in JHub's thread Out of all that stuff I learned a lot, but I'm still not sure what ROFL is. JHub seems to praise it, and I can't download your end game video about it because I only have a standard memborship. So first question: Could I get access to that video? Or could I get access to your power point presentation of that video? Or could you explain what ROFL is here in detail? Thanks.
hey man, i remember playing 9max turbos with you, back in the day. good luck in hu sng :)
Hey impulse I think I remember playing with an impluse_ru was that you? GL to the both of us moving from dead to juicy games!
yep, thats me :)
ROFL just means that instead of using NASH 8-15bb deep, let's take advantage of our opponent's tendencies and openshove some and fold some, but also limp some and minraise some, taking advantage of the properties of our hands. So 12bb deep, it's much better to minraise/call KJ than it is to openshove, even though NASH says it's a jam. Small pocket pairs, Ax, suited connecters etc can work much better in an open jamming range.But ROFL isn't about set charts or set strategies, it's about taking advantage of the characteristics of your hand and exploiting your opponent's tendencies. Sometimes it's correct to minraise 100% of our trash, sometimes it's correct to only play 60% from the button, sometimes it's correct to induce with AK, sometimes it's correct just to openjam (see skates calling point article).
Love it, now I'm getting a bit confused here whether to use Nash or that chubnovski dude. I thought Nash can be used as long as you don't deviate from it, and chub it doesn't matter? So since we're deviating from push/fold shouldn't we use the chub chart instead?
Read the "Shove or Fold?" article linked on the first post of the welcome thread when you get the chance.Especially when you're 10bb or greater (and even 8bb and up), it's best not to see NASH and Chubokov as strategies, but rather as information that helps you decide what the best play is.Chubokov, for example, is not a strategy. Pretending our opponents can see our hand is a ridiculous thing to do. However, knowing that a shove is +EV compared to folding no matter what calling range is employed is good information when deciding what to do with certain hands.Straight NASH is -EV against the NASH calling range >8bb deep. Many people do not understand this. Deviating from NASH is playing optimally.Read some of the endgame articles and bump them with questions, I think they'll help you a lot. Especially that shove or fold basics article.
Let me see if I got this right, if I'm shoving this nash range for <=8bbs:NASH Shove Ranges:8bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q4o+,Q2s+,J7o+,J2s+,T7o+,T4s+,97o+,95s+,87o,84s+,76o,74s+,64s+,53s+,43s7bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J6o+,J2s+,T7o+,T2s+,97o+,94s+,86o+,84s+,76o,74s+,63s+,53s+,43s6bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J5o+,J2s+,T6o+,T2s+,97o+,94s+,86o+,84s+,76o,74s+,63s+,53s+,43s5bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J2o+,T6o+,T2s+,96o+,93s+,86o+,84s+,76o,74s+,64s+,53s+4bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J2o+,T4o+,T2s+,95o+,92s+,86o+,84s+,76o,74s+,64s+,54s3bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J2o+,T2o+,93o+,92s+,85o+,82s+,75o+,73s+,64s+,54s2bbs: atc except 42o and 32o1bbs: atc The closes my oppoent in the BB can get to neutral EV is to call with this:NASH Call Ranges:8bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q7o+,Q3s+,J8o+,J7s+,T9o,T8s+,98s7bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q5o+,Q2s+,J8o+,J5s+,T8o+,T7s+,97s+,87s6bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J7o+,J2s+,T7o+,T6s+,98o,96s+,86s+5bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J4o+,J2s+,T6o+,T2s+,97o+,95s+,87o,85s+,75s+,65s4bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J2o+,T2o+,85o+,82s+,75o+,73s+,65o,63s+,54o,52s+,43s1-3bbs: atc Yet these calling ranges seem pretty loose for my stakes, in practice I don't come across villians calling like this too often. So I played around in sngwiz and found the loosest villian calling range where I can shove atc profitably:Villian calling ranges where you can shove atc:8bbs: 22+,A2o+,K6o+,K2s+,QTo+,Q8s+,JTs+7bbs: 22+,A2o+,K4o+,K2s+,Q9o+,Q8s+,JTo,J9s+6bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q8o+,Q4s+,JTo,J8s+,T9s5bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q5o+,Q2s+,J8o+,J7s+,T8s+,98s4bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J7o+,J2s+,T8o,T6s+,97s+,87s3bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J3o+,J2s+,T6o+,T2s+,96o+,95s+,87o,85s+,76s2bbs: 22+,A2o+,K2o+,Q2o+,J2o+,T2o+,92o+,84o+,82s+,75o+,73s+,65o,63s+,53s+,43s These seem like pretty standard calling ranges for my opponents who aren't crazy loose. On the flip side of the coin I suppose I should be shoving tighter than nash if my opponents are calling too much?
With 8-12bbs I will try to exploit the tendencies of the player type I am facing.Tight Passive: This player will not contest the pot pre or postflop without a good hand.-Try limp/stabing with weak hands.-mr hands that can call a shove and also play well postflop if flatted.-Shove hands that play poorly postflop but are still shoveable according to nash? Chubukov? Tight Aggressive: This player type might shove over our mr's and limps, but not as recklessly as a LAG opponent.-Try mr'ing top and bottom 10-15% of hands and pushing our middling hands according to nash? Chubukov? Loose Passive: This player type will flat our mr's often, and won't give up postflop.-mr strong hands that play well postflop and are strong enough to call a shove with.-shove strong hands that don't play well postflop.-shove a bit tighter than nash/chubukov Loose Aggressive: This player will call our shoves light and shove over our mr's and limps light.-limp monsters.-chubukov the rest?
Looks good. I do think that most villains are calling wider than those ranges but it's a good argument for not being too tight <8bb deep for sure.
I have to run out and I will reply later, but do yourself a favor and completely forget chubokov. It provides a few interesting pieces of information but it is not a strategy. I'll go more into this later.
I read your Chubokov article. It makes perfect sense why you wouldn't use it as a strategy because in practise your opponent won't have those calling ranges.I still am confused about one part of spamz article on endgame terminology/strategy:"Another important thing you have to remember: don't deviate from it if you want to use it. Suppose you're 11bb's shallow and you have Q7o. Nash says you can openshove this and it will be ev0 at worst. HOWEVER, what would you do with QQ+ in this spot? Would you also openshove it? Or limp or minraise in order to induce a shove from villain? If you would also openshove these hands, you can indeed openshove the Q7o as well. If you would play any other hand differently from the chart it becomes totally worthless and would have to be recalculated entirely before the equilibrum can be reached. Can you still openshove this? Hard to determine a new equilibrum so you should go to Chubukov instead."So if your in push/fold mode, then you suddenly mr or limp, to an observant opponent it is almost like your hand is face up (a monster or a decent hand that plays well postflop and you are willing to call a shove with) so then the chubokov comes more into effect because he "knows" what you have.Then again if you know your observant opponent knows this, you wouldn't be exploiting his tendencies. I guess instead you should be mr'ing or limping weak hands to balance this.
I strongly disagree with spamz there. He's wrong. NASH is meant to be deviated from >8bb. It's -EV vs the NASH calling range. Practically speaking it's completely wrong to not jam Q7o for that reason unless your opponent is calling wider than NASH which generally is not going to be the case. And if they are then that's the reason why we're not jamming, not some mumbo jumbo about only using NASH if we always use it.
I have added in some examples of hands to my strategy 8-12bbs deep to see if I understand which specific hands are good for certain situations. Tight Passive: This player will not contest the pot pre or postflop without a good hand.-Try limp/stabing with weak hands. (eg. 94s,J6o,75o,86o)-mr hands that can call a shove and also play well postflop if flatted. (eg. JJ+,ATo+,A9s+,KTo+,QTs+)-Shove hands that play poorly postflop but are still shoveable according to nash. (eg. A2o,K2s,Q9o,33) Tight Aggressive: This player type might shove over our mr's and limps, but not as recklessly as a LAG opponent.-Try mr'ing top and bottom 10-15% of hands and pushing our middling hands according to nash.(eg. 88+,A8o+,KTs+,KJo+,(T-3)2o,(T-4)3o) Loose Passive: This player type will flat our mr's often, and won't give up postflop.-mr strong hands that play well postflop and are strong enough to call a shove with. (eg. TT+,ATo+,A9s+,KTo+,QTs+)-shove strong hands that don't play well postflop. (eg. A6o,77,K8o,)-shove a bit tighter than nash. Loose Aggressive: This player will call our shoves light and shove over our mr's and limps light.-limp monsters. (eg. AKo,JJ+,KQs)-nash the rest.
OK thanks, I was assuming that paragraph was correct so thats why I was confused! I think I get it now!
Looks pretty good. I'm a little confused about your recipe for TAG though, so tell me what you're doing with the following hands:K9o, J7o, 63s, T3s, T7o, Q7o, QJs
I was just gonna post again about the TAG strategy, In my eg hands I used the top and bottom 10-15% of ALL hands. I was going to ask if I should be mr'ing the top and bottom 10-15% of the nash push range instead.Hands like K9o,QJs I consider good middling hands in the nash range to push 8-12bbs deep. I guess J7o,T7o,Q7o are the bottom of the nash push range so I should mr those. And then 63s and T3s aren't in the nash pushing range 8-12bbs deep so I should just open fold those?
OK. I'd widen your minraise/calling range to include K9o/QJs etc 10-12bb deep."are the bottom of the nash push range so I should mr those"I don't think this makes much sense. A lot of borderline hands really don't make a lot of sense to minraise.12bb deep I think J7o, T7o, Q7o are great limping hands readless.It doesn't make any sense to play T3o but not T3s so I was trying to make the point that the weakest hands you play should still be better than all the hands you fold.In general, 8-15bb play from the small blind is all about adjusting to your opponent's flatting and 3bettign ranges and taking advantage of the properties of your hand.
"I'd widen your minraise/calling range to include K9o/QJs etc 10-12bb deep.""12bb deep I think J7o, T7o, Q7o are great limping hands readless"I dunno if both of these are readless or if one of them is geared towards the TAG strategy.I can see why K9o/QJs could be a mr 10-12bbs no matter who the player type is. If they are aggressive with 3bets then K9o/QJs will be ahead of their range, and if they are passive then they play well postflop and dominate.For limping those marginal hands I'm guessing you would need a read that they aren't aggressive, as a limp here would get pushed on a lot by tags and lags.
Both of these are readless. K9/QJs are almost always minraise/calling hands.I limp J7o/T7o/Q7o readless 12-15bb deep. I'd need a read that my opponent was loose against limps not to. If you think about the range most people attack limps with it's not all that wide. And when we winraise they usually jam with those hands anyway so it plays better than minraise/folding vs the top of their range.
Would it be possible to use Mikogo instead of teamviewer for tomorrow? I just haven't got it yet and I understand I'll need it for the group sesh thanks.As for the lesson plan I thought I'd fire up some ST's and try explaining my reasoning in real time, then near the end you can give me feed back. If you have a better idea I'd be glad to hear it!
Yep, that should work just fine. Looking forward to it!
my mikogo account is lucas.flett@gmail.commy skype is flettl2
Your 11-14bbs from the SB article really hit home, mostly because I wasn't thinking about all the different plays available to me.raise/fold/push/limp, see which one is most +EV, then choose that. I used to just think, push is +EV so do that instead of fold ;). So now I want to see all the expectations of checking/raising/pushing against a SB limper in the 10-15bbs range.I can figure out the expectation of pushing in this example:
No Limit Holdem Tournament • 2 Players$35 + $0.75 Heads Up Sit & Go Hand converted by the official HUSNG.com hand converter SBfowlernumber9465 BBHero535 Effective Stacks: 16bb Blinds 15/30 Pre-Flop (45, 2 players) Hero is BB fowlernumber9 calls 15, Hero goes all-in 535, fowlernumber9 folds Final Pot: 565 Hero wins 565 ( won +30 ) fowlernumber9 lost -30
Against a loose passive player I think he might call with this range:Hand 0: 38.451% { JsTd }Hand 1: 61.549% { 22+, A2s+, K8s+, Q9s+, JTs, A2o+, K9o+, QTo+ } (top 28.5% of hands)BUT I also think most players are raising the top 10%. For example a trapper might limp w AA w 9bbs but with closer to 15bbs I think they would want to build the pot more preflop.So then if I leave out the top 10% of that calling range we get:Hand 0: 41.955% { JsTd }Hand 1: 58.045% { 99-22, A7s-A2s, KTs-K8s, Q9s+, JTs, A8o-A2o, KJo-K9o, QTo+ } (top 28.5% of hands minus the very top 10%) We get to be about a 60% dog. That's when we're called. Most of the time they are l/f'ing With a range like this:{ K7s-K2s, Q8s-Q2s, J9s-J5s, T6s+, 95s+, 84s+, 74s+, 64s+, 54s, 43s, K8o-K2o, Q9o-Q5o, J6o+, T7o+, 96o+, 86o+, 76o, 65o } (middling 35.5% of hands) EV(push) = blinds*F + (Ewin - Elose)*C*stacksIn the second l/c range, he is limping 54% of the time (18.5% l/c + 35.5% l/f).When he limps, he is l/c'ing (18.5/54) = 34% = CWhen he limps, he is l/f'ing (35.5/54) = 66% = FIn this example With JTo, Ewin = 42%, Elose = 58%, stacks = 15bbs, blinds = 2bbsEV(push) = 2*0.66 + (0.42 - 0.58)*15*0.34 = +0.504 If these calculations are correct, (not sure if blinds should be 1 or 2, how should I define a reference point?) then I can figure out if shoving over a limp is +EV.Now to figure out which hands to check or raise.In your article you talked about categories of 'better than folding'. Hands that were very +EV to push, you could either push because they didn't play well postflop or mr to induce. I think this category plays similar against limps from the SB. You will push A4s but raise 3x with KK.In the lower category, you have hands that are still +EV to push, but you might get more value out of seeing a flop. Maybe something like QJs. It's not a monster so you aren't looking to induce a shove, but it plays well postflop that you don't mind a call, and might get more chips than if you open shoved. I'm gonna stop here for a second to ask about positional advantage. I'm guessing you want to be shoving much more than checking or raising if a shove is +EV. I just don't know how to quantify positional advantage, how +EV a shove does it need to be for me to consider raising instead?The second last category are hands that are BARELY +EV to shove, I haven't done the calculations for any other hands, but maybe something like 98o. This would be a very marginal shove over a limp 15bbs deep, so maybe checking and playing a hand that flops pretty well would be MORE +EV.The very last category are hands that are -EV to shove. Hands like 74o. I guess we just check them. You would need some hard evidence that he l/f's a ton to make a raise.Switching your -0.5bb frame of reference (fold) to my 0bb frame of reference (check), the categories look like this:>0.950.5-0.950.25-0.50-0.25<0As I talked about the positional disadvantage we have, I'm guessing we would need to have even greater EV than these categories to suggest playing postflop is better than shoving preflop. For example with 12bbs IP r/c'ing with K9o is optimal, but OOP it's likely best to ship it pre?I'm not trying to say your categories are a bible and I'm sticking to them religiously or anything but I thought it was a good concept on how to view all the situations available to you, and determine which one is optimal.
It's just much more difficult to calculate what range you're up against when your opponent limps, which makes those sort of precise calculations very difficult.I think it's best to think about it as winning 1bb from the start of the hand when he folds to the jam, and losing 2.4bb from the start of the hand when he calls the jam. That adds up to being -EV from the start of the hand and I think checking or even 3x/folding is going to have better expectation, depending on the type of loose passive opponent.I really like the thinking though - trying to go for the most EV, not just +EV.In general, connected hands work best to 3x, and Ax/low pp hands work best to just jam. Once you get down to 10bb I mostly jam everything I'm raising with the exception of big premiums and KQ/KJ/KT against some.
So our EV(push) = 1*0.66 + (-2.4)*.34 = -0.156bbsSaying we win 1bb when we shove and he folds, how can you quantify what we win by checking?If he bet the flop 100% and we c/f 100% then our EV(check) = -1bbObv we will hit and win some pots some of the time, but against a 54% limp range OOP with JTo can we expect to be +EV? I guess it would depend on how good our opponent is postflop, but do you think we can do better than -0.156bbs? I don't have a big enough sample, but I'm sure there's a way to filter JTo checked OOP with ~15bbs in HEM.
Yeah, then you get into the guessing game where you just have to kind of guess, especially for something like that. I suspect it's a little better, though.
I've finally read threw all of Jhubs thread. I was really good to get basic ranges. He was an important part from it, Jhub asks if the following are good preflop ranges:"20-25bbs deep:vs an 80% raiser: flat K5+,K2s+,Q8+,Q4s+,J8+,J7s+,T8+,T6s+,98,96s+,87,85s+,74s+,64s+,54s (FWIW I think it's a very thin line between flatting, shoving, & 3betting to 100 w/ a lot of these hands, depending on the opponent), & especially closer to 20bb3bet push: 22-99,A2+ (some bluff hands, especially closer to 20bb)3bet to 100: TT+, random junkish hands like 95s, 84s, J5s, etc.. (If they 4bet wide I might reshove w/ more bluff hands & maybe increase my 2.5-3x value range)3bet to 120: KJ+,KTs,QTs+ (maybe K9s & QJo) vs a 60% raiser: flat A2-A4,K7+,K4s+,Q9+,Q5s+,J9+,J7s+,T9,T6s+,98,96s+,86s+,75s+,65s,54s3bet push:22-99,A5+,A2s+ (I might start pushing some of the more suited connected stuff at around 20bb vs some players)3bet to 100: same as vs 80% but w/ less bluffs3bet to 120: KQ,KJsvs a 40% raiser: flat: A2+,K9+,K6s+,Q9+,Q8s+,J9+,J8s+,T8s+,98s,87s,76s3bet to 100: TT+ (mix in some bluffs if you play them a lot & they actually catch on)3bet to 120: KQ,KJs+" Basically you said his flatting range was too tight, you would flat more suited Q's and connecting T's etc.Coming from 9man sngs I'm a true nit and thought Jhubs flatting range was too loose! When we had our private sweat session my 3bet and 3bet shove ranges were similar but I was only flatting broadways, SC's and weaker A's. I'm sure I was folding T8o, Q5s, K2s, J7s all over the place but you didn't say anything. Is this because I'm a noob and should start off playing tight OOP? I know postflop is the worst part of my game, and OOP don't get me started lol. But should I start really loosening up OOP like u suggested to Jhub?
" I'm sure I was folding T8o, Q5s, K2s, J7s all over the place but you didn't say anything." I don't think this is the case :) I would have recommended all those hands be calls.
Really liked the "too tight OOP" article. I feel like all the articles this month were catered to me!I never checked back in the group sesh thread till today, thought Fri was still a go but I understand you had to cancel, I will send you some HH's early next week if that's ok?And the way it works is I just play a 30min sesh one tabling then send you all the HH's in that time frame?
Yep, that's perfect.We're trying to set up another session for next Wednesday, if you'd prefer that.You don't have to one-table, you can also just pluck tournament HHs from HEM or whatever and use "tournament length" to make it 30 mins total worth of play.